That One Day
This was just one of those days. It was the first offshore day of the winter so there definitely wasn’t a shortage of heads in the lineup.
We paddled out around 8:30am and joined the crowd before the tide got too high and things slowed down. The water was cold and with the inconsistent waves due to the tide, we decided to go get some food and come back when the tide drops.
11am we check it again. Tide is still a bit high and now it’s even more packed since the word got out. So we decided to walk a 1/2 mile down the beach to find our own peak. And we did! While everyone was surfing up the beach, we had our own zone with only four of us out for almost 4 hours.
This is what we got. Hope you enjoy!
Film – Dj Logic
Surfer – Jeremy Ryan
Music – “Graveyard” by The Devil Makes Three